The Northern Cape

From the coast I headed north. This involved more dirt roads. Ok but it was gently raining. When I reached the main road I had reached new heights of grubbiness. Good job really as I was heading for the northern cape. Afrikaans country. My disheveled, stubbly, red faced demeanor was perhaps one reason everyone spoke to me in Afrikanns. "No I'm from England". "WHAT?".

I stayed on a farm near Springbok. I was the only one there. The land is now much more rugged & arid. Water is scarce. It feels like I'm getting nearer the desert. The owner showed me a picture of a couple from Belgium who passed through a few weeks ago on a Ural sidecar combination heading for Senegal. Makes my trip sound tame. At night the sky is full of stars. No light pollution here.

Took a walk into the hills. I was clambering cautiously . If ever there was snake country, this was it.

The road from Springbok to Keimoes was 250 miles of near straight highway. The land is now flat with boulders strewn randomly - some massive. In the distance loom angular hills with sharp edges untouched by water erosion. This region has next to no rainfall. There is very little vegetation, wildlife - human life. A convoy of BMW GS riders shoots by. I've seen the same before. Riding fast in a convoy as if terrified of being alone. Its a relief to get to the Orange river. Farming & people re-emerge. I stop at the Augrabies NP to see the waterfall. Given the lack of rain, it was not at its most impressive but still a sight. Alpine swifts acrobatically flew above the water catching flies. Pale winged starlings watched me from above & lizards ran, stopped motionless & then ran again around my feet. 

I am writing this in Keimoes near Upington. I'm not far from Botswana. There are 3 or 4 holiday cottages on top of a hill. Below the vineyards stretch out into distance (raisins I think). The double trailer trucks thunder by. Just been looking at the owners Porsche 914. He brought it over from Florida. "Don't worry about security Dave. Whole place is lazer alarmed. If the alarm goes off, stay inside. I will sort the bastards out". I am sat drinking beer (well lager) with the owners cat & a gaggle of noisy red eyed bulbuls (I know this because I now have a bird book). Outside the bike is cooling down - still leaking oil.