12K KM in 6
weeks may sound a lot. It’s not really. Africa is huge so there are big
distances between stops. Really, I took my time. After an initial surge of
enthusiasm, I soon settled into morning only travelling to avoid the heat. This
also means you’ve got the rest of the day to decide whether to stay on. My last week was a bit rushed with a series of
500K days but on good roads so it just meant hours in the saddle.
In short, this
is an area of the world with endless possibilities & places to explore. I
only scratched the surface (I completely bypassed Namibia for example). Compared
to northern (& I guess central) Africa, it’s an easy place to access. It’s
a stable, well connected area covering hugely diverse landscapes. The people are
friendly, helpful, open & genuinely interested in what you’re up to. Yes,
the big hitter tourist brigade has hiked pricing for the average traveller but
there are always ways around this.
Of all the
countries, Botswana had the biggest impact. Here the wildlife remains wild.
There are few fences. It is lightly populated (the Kalahari is after all a
desert). Politics has had a lighter touch here. People seem to trust their politicians
& the social divides are less evident (although I’m sure still exist). The
wealth created from mining (notably diamonds) feels better distributed in infrastructure.
Yes, the tourist machine is in full swing around the Okavango & Chobe but
people tend to fly in, bus around & fly out.
All
countries I visited had challenges – most notably Zimbabwe where people had
just given up on government. A new currency was due to be launched to replace
use of the dollar. With hyper inflation, expectations were low. In both the old
Rhodesian countries & South Africa, the transition from a colonial system
to something new was definitely work in progress. This has produced an underlying
uneasiness – particularly (but not exclusively) in the white community. Typically,
a white person lives in a fortified complex with layers of security a bank would
be happy with. I was asked not to walk outside the
perimeter of my patio as the lasers will trigger alarms & an armed response.
Personally, I never had a concern about security. Mind you, I probably didn’t exude
wealth with my dodgy grey/ginger beard, dirt encrusted gear & untidy bike. But
for the average person (black or white) security is a big issue.
The colonial past has left deep scars. The
middle class is growing but remains small. Social divisions are deeply
entrenched. Most striking is the very rich & the very poor (there are
plenty of black & white people begging in the cities). Taking a stroll down
the coast in Cape Town, the road was lined with multi-million rand palaces with
older, white guys driving growling Ferraris or Maseratis or riding a Harley
Davidson (with the obligatory leather waistcoat). Younger white guys
ride by at speed in packs on carbon fibre bicycles. Well dressed white women holding tiny dogs observe from white tiled balconies with glimpses of white
leather & glass behind them. Meanwhile, the only black guys I saw (with one
or two exceptions) were security guards or gardeners.
In the
midst of this social divide is the hugely rich natural world. To the richer, it’s
a £300/night money making opportunity. To the poorer its food or easy money via
poaching. Either way, Africa’s wildlife is being squeezed. To see South Africa's wild animals you have to visit a fenced reserve.
By contrast, I was bombarded with daily updates on the American
presidential circus. There are differences & similarities. Western voters across
the world seem disillusioned by politics & politicians - hence protest
voting. Africans voters are disillusioned too. Worse though - they feel
disempowered & distrustful (Mugabe/Zuma). Politics is similarly failing. In the US, it
feels like a “lesser of two evils” choice – but at least there is a choice.
I met no
one else travelling alone by bike (perhaps unsurprisingly). The majority were
travelling by Safari bus. These are modified trucks with wider windows &
wider tyres. Africa’s answer to going on a cruise. The group is cocooned for
the majority of the time (or imprisoned depending on your view of your fellow
passengers) & only released at pre-arranged venues where normality on the
ground is suspended. I witnessed the arrival/departure of the Safari buses
frequently. Exclusively white, European people step off, understandably uneasy
they tend to politely dodge the market sellers & head for the nearest brand
(e.g. Coke, Wimpey, McD). Ok but for me Africa is all about getting your hands
dirty (a metaphor although my hands have been dirty throughout). In my view, it
has to be experienced firsthand. And that does mean dirt, pollution, noise,
bugs, chaos, hassle etc. It also means openness, friendliness & a
willingness to help. The former is the dominant first impression & perhaps
only impression from a Safari bus. The latter is a powerful & positive
argument that despite its problems Africa will come out of this period of
change stronger & more sustainable than before.
My only
complaint is beer – its lager or lager here. That said, even I will have to
admit an ice cold one hits the spot in the heat. For clarity, though, this nod
towards lager drinking is only a “stays on tour” compliment. Lager drinkers are
of course destined to always remain at the very bottom of the UK ale drinking
hierarchy.
