Livingstone, Zambia

Given Kasane is a crossroads, I had choices. I was planing to go to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Understandably another tourist trap. That means top dollar prices. I knew had to re-plan my route anyway. The people in the north of Mozambique are shooting at the people in the south. Apparently they haven't been paid. I was planning to use the road that divides the two. It is now only passable with  military escort. Even then there are attacks (Q. from Herman " They shoot at anything").

So Plan B is to approach Moz from the south. Next stop  is now Zambia. I crossed the Zambezi on a chain ferry. Early indicators of a simple border crossing were not promising. I was immediately surrounded by young guys chaperoning me through (reminiscent of Morocco). To cross you need a visa (the easy bit). Then you need to get your vehicle through. First queue is for Carbon tax. Second queue is for Toll Fees. Third queue is for the Council Levy. Lastly, you need to buy insurance. At each step, very disinterested desk staff come & go. People do not queue. You boil in bike gear (its mid 30s C) & there's the small matter of currency. They want US dollars. The currency is the Kwacha which was devalued by a thousand a few years ago. Three hours later I'm heading to Livingstone. First question. Which side do they drive on ? Is that truck coming at me on the right or wrong side? Thankfully he was avoiding potholes, swerved at the last minute so was on my side of the road.

First impressions. Zambia has not capitalised on the Victoria Falls halo as much as Zimbabwe. Rooms in Zim can be £300/night. In Zam they're £30 (in 30+ degrees I've decided camping is best avoided). But its not just money. It feels more real in Zam. I sat in a bar listening to great rap, drinking the local brew (Mosi - yes, its lager) initially as the only white bloke. 10 mins down the road is Vic Falls. Its been dry so the water is low. Still impresses. 

This bridge was built & assembled in Darlington & shipped to Zambia. It was re-assembled in 1905. Part of Rhodes' Cape to Cairo project.