Observations

12K KM in 6 weeks may sound a lot. It’s not really. Africa is huge so there are big distances between stops. Really, I took my time. After an initial surge of enthusiasm, I soon settled into morning only travelling to avoid the heat. This also means you’ve got the rest of the day to decide whether to stay on. My last week was a bit rushed with a series of 500K days but on good roads so it just meant hours in the saddle.

In short, this is an area of the world with endless possibilities & places to explore. I only scratched the surface (I completely bypassed Namibia for example). Compared to northern (& I guess central) Africa, it’s an easy place to access. It’s a stable, well connected area covering hugely diverse landscapes. The people are friendly, helpful, open & genuinely interested in what you’re up to. Yes, the big hitter tourist brigade has hiked pricing for the average traveller but there are always ways around this.

Of all the countries, Botswana had the biggest impact. Here the wildlife remains wild. There are few fences. It is lightly populated (the Kalahari is after all a desert). Politics has had a lighter touch here. People seem to trust their politicians & the social divides are less evident (although I’m sure still exist). The wealth created from mining (notably diamonds) feels better distributed in infrastructure. Yes, the tourist machine is in full swing around the Okavango & Chobe but people tend to fly in, bus around & fly out.

All countries I visited had challenges – most notably Zimbabwe where people had just given up on government. A new currency was due to be launched to replace use of the dollar. With hyper inflation, expectations were low. In both the old Rhodesian countries & South Africa, the transition from a colonial system to something new was definitely work in progress. This has produced an underlying uneasiness – particularly (but not exclusively) in the white community. Typically, a white person lives in a fortified complex with layers of security a bank would be happy with. I was asked not to walk outside the perimeter of my patio as the lasers will trigger alarms & an armed response. Personally, I never had a concern about security. Mind you, I probably didn’t exude wealth with my dodgy grey/ginger beard, dirt encrusted gear & untidy bike. But for the average person (black or white) security is a big issue.

The colonial past has left deep scars. The middle class is growing but remains small. Social divisions are deeply entrenched. Most striking is the very rich & the very poor (there are plenty of black & white people begging in the cities). Taking a stroll down the coast in Cape Town, the road was lined with multi-million rand palaces with older, white guys driving growling Ferraris or Maseratis or riding a Harley Davidson (with the obligatory leather waistcoat). Younger white guys ride by at speed in packs on carbon fibre bicycles. Well dressed white women holding tiny dogs observe from white tiled balconies with glimpses of white leather & glass behind them. Meanwhile, the only black guys I saw (with one or two exceptions) were security guards or gardeners.  

In the midst of this social divide is the hugely rich natural world. To the richer, it’s a £300/night money making opportunity. To the poorer its food or easy money via poaching. Either way, Africa’s wildlife is being squeezed. To see South Africa's wild animals you have to visit a fenced reserve.

By contrast, I was bombarded with daily updates on the American presidential circus. There are differences & similarities. Western voters across the world seem disillusioned by politics & politicians - hence protest voting. Africans voters are disillusioned too. Worse though - they feel disempowered & distrustful (Mugabe/Zuma). Politics is similarly failing. In the US, it feels like a “lesser of two evils” choice – but at least there is a choice.

I met no one else travelling alone by bike (perhaps unsurprisingly). The majority were travelling by Safari bus. These are modified trucks with wider windows & wider tyres. Africa’s answer to going on a cruise. The group is cocooned for the majority of the time (or imprisoned depending on your view of your fellow passengers) & only released at pre-arranged venues where normality on the ground is suspended. I witnessed the arrival/departure of the Safari buses frequently. Exclusively white, European people step off, understandably uneasy they tend to politely dodge the market sellers & head for the nearest brand (e.g. Coke, Wimpey, McD). Ok but for me Africa is all about getting your hands dirty (a metaphor although my hands have been dirty throughout). In my view, it has to be experienced firsthand. And that does mean dirt, pollution, noise, bugs, chaos, hassle etc. It also means openness, friendliness & a willingness to help. The former is the dominant first impression & perhaps only impression from a Safari bus. The latter is a powerful & positive argument that despite its problems Africa will come out of this period of change stronger & more sustainable than before.  

My only complaint is beer – its lager or lager here. That said, even I will have to admit an ice cold one hits the spot in the heat. For clarity, though, this nod towards lager drinking is only a “stays on tour” compliment. Lager drinkers are of course destined to always remain at the very bottom of the UK ale drinking hierarchy.